If Zahav, named the best restaurant in the country at the 2019 James Beard Awards, is any indication, reservations at Laser Wolf should be booked well in advance.Philadelphia’s Michael Solomonov, one of the country’s most renowned Israeli chefs, once ran a quick-service hummus spot in Manhattan, but Laser Wolf in Brooklyn marks his full-scale, let’s-have-a-night-out-in-New-York debut. It’s open for dinner only, Sunday to Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. The dry-aged rib eye for two at Laser Wolf. There’s room for 90 diners across tables, a 12-seat bar, and, in warm weather, outdoor tables. The look at Laser Wolf, located in a former warehouse at the corner of Howard and Thompson streets, near the destination restaurants of Fishtown, is casual-cool, with industrial elements, globe lanterns and string lights, and brightly patterned tablecloths meant to call up the vibe of the Machane Yehuda Market in the Israeli city of Jerusalem. The wine list highlights bottles from Israel. To drink, there are citrus-y cocktails like the salty lion with gin, arak, grapefruit, mint, and salt, or the alcohol-free passion fruit cooler. The menu at Laser Wolf, new in Philadelphia, is focused around the charcoal grill.
Dinner concludes with a soft-serve ice cream sundae, included in the price. Or go for the whole branzino for two, prepared Palestinian-style, stuffed with ginger, dill seed, and Aleppo pepper. Next come the grilled meats, fish, and vegetables, with options like Romanian beef kebab, lamb merguez, chicken with a guava marinade, Tunisian-style tuna with a fiery harissa glaze, and fat mushrooms with pine nut tahini. You’ll want to fill up on those, but that’s just the opening gambit. Running the kitchen at Laser Wolf is Andrew Henshaw, coming from Zahav. (According to Fiddler on the Roof documentary Fiddler: A Miracle of Miracles, the show has been performed somewhere around the world every day for half a century.) In charge of the charcoal grill in the open kitchen is Andrew Henshaw, formerly chef de cuisine at Zahav and now executive chef at Laser Wolf.Ī meal at the restaurant starts with freshly made pita, that hummus Zahav (and Solomonov and Cook’s Dizengoff) is famous for, and small shiny bowls filled with salatim: sweet potato muhammara, eggplant and pepper relish, braised fennel with orange, shaved Brussels sprouts with hazelnuts and spicy amba, Israeli pickles and Castelvetrano olives, pumpkin chershi, eggplant baba ghanoush, kale baba ghanoush, dill and lentil tabbouleh, white beans with peppers and tomato, shipka peppers with pickled longhots, and shaved cucumbers with harissa. Laser Wolf is a skewer house, or shipudiya in Hebrew, named after Lazar Wolf, the butcher in iconic Jewish musical Fiddler on the Roof. Reservations are now being taken on Laser Wolf’s website.
The grill-focused spot from James Beard Award winners Mike Solomonov and Steve Cook opens Thursday, February 6. Laser Wolf, the sequel to Philadelphia’s game-changing Israeli restaurant Zahav, is ready to start serving lamb skewers, kale baba ghanoush, creamy hummus, and fresh-from-the-oven pita in Kensington, which can now officially call itself Philly’s next restaurant destination.
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